From onion sets 1.5-2.5 cm in size, large juicy bulbs can be grown, which is why it is so loved plant summer residents on their plots are profitable. But is it easy? Pre-sowing treatment includes a number of traditional activities: preparation of planting material, soil, formation of beds. BUT plant onion sets in open ground, as rule spring. We have collected the main information about this in this article.
When to plant sevok in open ground?
In the southern regions, it is permissible to plant sevok in the ground already at the end of April, and in other regions of Russia - only at the beginning of May. If you hurry and plant the onion in unheated soil (with a temperature of less than 12 degrees), it will go into the arrow. But there is nothing good in belated sowing either: due to lack of moisture and heat, the seedlings will grow slowly. Everything has its time 😉
If we focus on the Sowing Lunar Calendar, then in 2017 the favorable dates for planting onions, including sets, will be:
- in April: 22nd and 28th,
- in May: 7th, 8th, 9th, 19th, 20th and 24th.
In June, onion sets are too late to plant.
Preparing for landing
Sorting
Before sowing, the seedlings are selected and sorted. Bulbs with a diameter of 1.5-2.5 cm are considered the best specimens, but larger and smaller sizes can be taken. The main thing is to discard specimens that have dried up, sprouted, with signs of disease and visible damage.
Do not be fooled by sales and tempting offers to buy onion sets for a promotion. As a rule, sprouted, dried bulbs are offered at a discount. They already have practically no vitality and, despite caring care, the sense of it is unlikely to come out.
Degrees 18 for storage, well dried. If purchased and it is not known where it was stored, wait 2 weeks at home at room temperature. The sevok was stored at low temperatures - such a bow goes into the arrow.
Planting material is sorted by size and planted on the bed also by size: first large, then smaller, and finally the smallest. So the shoots will be more or less uniform.
warming up
In order to disinfect the bulbs, they are heated before planting in the ground:
Sevok 2 weeks before planting is heated at a temperature of 38-43 degrees for 8 hours. This is especially true if you use your own planting material and the plants had a downy mildew last year.
Warming up in water. Warm onion bath. 1 day before planting, the bulbs are poured into a bucket and poured with hot water (45-50 degrees). You only need to hold it for 1-2 minutes. After that, the bulbs are transferred to cold water and kept for only 1 minute.
Soaking sevka
As soon as the bulbs have warmed up, we proceed to the soaking stage. To do this, you can prepare a nutrient solution from growth biostimulants: dissolve 1 tablespoon of Intermag for bulbous crops in 10 liters of water, 5 drops of Emistim growth regulator. Soaking is carried out for 12 hours. Then it is not necessary to wash the sevok, but directly proceed to planting. Soaking solution, so as not to throw away so much benefit, shed grooves.
You can also soak onions in growth stimulants. Suitable universal tool "Bud", it is used according to the instructions on the package. And so that sores do not become attached, after such treatment, you can hold the bulbs for 15-20 minutes in a cherry-colored potassium permanganate solution, and then rinse with clean water. And after that, you can plant the onion.
In order for the onion to germinate faster, it is recommended to cut its tails to the shoulders (still dry), and then soak in a solution of potassium humate "Prompter" for vegetables: dissolve 1 tablespoon of the product in 3 liters of water, mix. It is necessary to keep onion sets in the solution for exactly a day (24 hours).
You can soak the sevok before planting in other solutions: potassium permanganate, vitriol, salt. This is discussed in detail in the article.
Soil preparation
A bed for sowing is best prepared in the fall. It is important to remove all plant debris from it and disinfect it with a solution of copper sulfate. To do this, prepare the following composition: 1 tablespoon of vitriol per 10 liters of water. Consumption: 1 liter per 1 square meter of soil.
In the spring, immediately before sowing, the soil is dug up and fertilized. You can add 3 kg of humus, the same amount of peat and the Exo universal purchased mixture. And it is better to add organic matter depending on the composition of the soil (see table).
After fertilizing, the soil is leveled with a rake, slightly tamped. It is not bad to shed it with a growth stimulator, for example - Energen (dissolve 2 capsules in 10 liters of water, spend 3 liters per 1 square meter).
Then it is advised to cover the finished bed with a film for 5 days and leave it like that until sowing.
How to plant
Before planting, grooves are made on the ridge. The depth of the grooves: 4 cm. The distance between them: 20 cm. The grooves are watered with water at room temperature using a watering can with a fine strainer. Water consumption: 2-3 liters per 1 square meter.
Bulbs are placed in rows at a distance of 8-10 cm from each other and sprinkled with a layer of earth 2 cm.
*Small sets can be planted more often, and large ones less often.
The planted sevok will hatch after 5-6 days. And now it is worth taking care of proper care for young shoots. But this is a topic for a separate article. 😉
Video
Very detailed and accessible on how to plant onion sets in open ground is described in the video of our favorite Youtube channel "Garden World".
Did you know that onions belong to the lily family, representing a numerous genus of biennial and perennial plants that are cultivated by humans for consumption in various forms and as a prophylactic against seasonal colds.
More than 600 types of onions are known to the world, 400 of them grow in the Northern Hemisphere, and 230 are cultivated on the territory of the former USSR. The most famous varieties for most users are: batun, fragrant, leek, multi-tiered, slime, chives, garlic and wild garlic.
The most common of all varieties of onion, known in cultivation for about six thousand years, on the territory of Russia, turnip is bred in regions, with the places of breeding of which the names of these varieties are also associated: Arzamas, Bessonovsky, Danilovsky, Penza, Rostov and others.
For sowing and planting onions, the earliest dates - in spring and the latest - in autumn, are preferable, since onions are cold-resistant and capable of vernalization at low positive temperatures, answering the question of how to plant onions in spring, we answer that not earlier than night temperatures become higher than +2 to +5 C.
It is better to sow seed onions in beds prepared since autumn in the earliest climatic terms with the onset of spring.
Place for planting onions in spring
A good gardener has been preparing a seat for a bow on a head since autumn. To do this, you need to dig deep into the soil and spread organic fertilizers (compost, manure, chicken manure) over the arable land with a mixture or at your choice from the calculation: 1.5 - 2.0 buckets per 1 square meter.
In addition, 25-35 grams of superphosphate and potassium salts for the same 1 m2 (sprinkle on top, like salt). Until spring, all mineral and organic fertilizers will dissolve and fall evenly into the soil.
Optimum crops before planting onions
The best predecessors for growing healthy and large bulbs are considered to be places where pumpkin, peas, beans, zucchini and nightshade (potatoes, tomatoes, or eggplants) grew. But last year's plots from under carrots, beets, cucumbers or garlic will NOT be able to please with decent onion crops.
When planting onions in the spring, you need to take into account various details and little things that contribute to a good harvest. The stability of warm weather and the temperature of warming up the soil are important:
- the soil has not warmed up enough, below 12-14 C, - the onion will sprout into an arrow;
the best time is the end of April - the first days of May and preferably in warm soil - the bulb head will grow well, and not the greens otherwise; - if you delay sowing, and it will fall on high temperatures and a lack of natural moisture, then the development of the bulbs is delayed and threatens to reduce the planned yield;
- in central Russia, gardeners correlate the timing of planting onions with the flowering of bird cherry.
Method of sowing / planting onions in spring
If the area for spring planting of onions is prepared and fertilized before winter, then immediately before planting, at least the planting rows should be watered with a dark pink aqueous solution of sodium permanganate, which will simultaneously feed and disinfect the soil.
After you have sown / planted onions, do not feed anything until the very harvest, but it is important to constantly remove weeds, because it is not enough just to plant onions in the spring, you need to take care of them almost until the very harvest to one degree or another!
Preparing onion seeds for sowing
Seeds make it possible to grow onions on a feather. Almost a month before sowing, a check (stratification) should be carried out for their germination. For this purpose, nigella (onion seeds) is placed in a gauze bag and immersed in hot (+45 +55 C) water for no more than 12-16 minutes, after which - in cold water for 1.5-2 minutes for hardening. And then kept in a natural damp cloth, not allowing it to dry for 22-26 hours. Then they are placed in a container with water at room temperature and, changing the water daily, stand them in a cool place or on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 2-3 days. As a result of swelling, the seeds are freed from substances that prevent germination.
Before planting, the water is drained, the “chernushka” is dried on a paper towel, mixed with sand or sawdust so that the sowing is uniform without thickening.
Preparation of onion sets
In any case, the seedlings must be sorted by size before planting: first select large, medium and small onions. Plant large ones first - they will go to the arrow and decide for yourself whether to use them in a green form or leave them on a nigella. After them - medium and small, which will give a turnip by autumn, large or medium, will depend on the care.
Not earlier than 3-4 days before planting, the prepared planting material should be dried and heated, spreading it in a thin layer on a heating surface at a temperature not higher than + 35-42 C. Otherwise, the entire bow may go to the arrow.
After drying and warming up in the prepared aqueous solution of complex fertilizers (15-20 grams per 10 liters of water), soak for 8-10 hours. After this mineral bath, soak the seed for 40-60 minutes in an aqueous solution of copper sulfate (10-15 grams per 10 liters) in order to prevent fungal diseases of the future crop. After a vitriol bath, rinse with running non-cold water, allow excess moisture to drain and can be planted. Bulbs on a feather need to be cut off the tops.
Sowing onions in spring with seeds
Prepared onion seeds, mixed with sawdust or sand, evenly sow in shallow grooves of 1-1.5 centimeters, sprinkle with soil and cover with foil until germination. And in late autumn, before winter, nigella can be sown dry, leveling the ground, sprinkled with peat chips or humus.
It will take 2 years to grow onion-turnips: the first year from seeds (nigella) you get sevok (onions) and only in the second year - from sevka - bulbs. There is experience of growing in one year, but this will require very early sowing or seedlings that have grown up within 2 months before planting in the ground. Sow onion seeds at the beginning of March at the rate of 12-14 grams per M2 in shallow boxes with soil for seedlings and grow 2-month-old onion seedlings in a greenhouse way.
Before planting in open ground, the leaves of the bulbous seedlings are shortened by half and the roots are cut to a length of 2-3 centimeters. Prepared sprouts are planted in the ground in rows, the distance between which is 20 centimeters, and between plants in a row - 8-10 centimeters. The total planting density is 40-50 plants per 1 M2. Practice shows that it is possible to plant more densely so that the bulbs ripen faster. Under favorable weather and agrotechnical conditions, frequent plantings will make it possible to thin them out, using grown bulbs for food.
Onion sets, when planted in a row, are deepened at least 4-5 centimeters, so that up to 2.5-3.5 centimeters of soil is above the shoulders of these onions. At the end of planting, the soil is watered and mulched to prevent cracking.
Optimal timing for planting onion sets
The best time to plant onions in the spring is considered to be the end of April - the beginning of May, as spring weather allows - the sevok is not afraid of low positive temperatures and begins to germinate already at 0 C. If the sevok is small and there is no certainty to keep it until spring, then it is better to plant before winter. Sets of large and medium-sized Central Russian varieties are almost unlimited in terms of vernalization - its vernalization lasts more than 4 months, and the rudiments "sleep" all winter under the necessary storage conditions. And immediately after planting in the ground in early spring, they begin to actively grow.
It is much better to use a zoned sevka variety for your site, and it is even better to grow such sevka from your own home-grown nigella.
Do I need to loosen the ground after planting onions?
Despite the simplicity of onion care, its basic rules will lead to a high yield. The onion turnip loves air and light, and for this reason it tends to “get out” to the surface. And in this regard, the most important thing in the care of onions is regular loosening after watering, rains, and during dry periods. When an impenetrable crust is formed, the onion roots suffocate, the feather begins to turn pale and even turn yellow, and overall growth stops.
Loosening is not only a way of sufficient aeration of onion roots, but also effective, which have time to spread violently while the bulbs slowly grow with roots and leaves.
The watering regime will be prompted by the weather itself. If there is sufficient rainfall in the spring, when onion plantings are in dire need of constant moisture, it is not necessary to water at all.
In the summer season, moderate watering alternates with the obligatory subsequent loosening, and by the beginning of the ripening of the turnip, watering is minimal so as not to stimulate the growth of leaves and not to delay the ripening of large bulbs. In addition, excessive watering worsens the quality of storage of grown onions.
Fertilizers and top dressing of onions after planting
If the pre-planting top dressing of the soil was carried out correctly and fully, then additional top dressing will be required only for poor soil. But if the vegetation Luca is coming sluggish for some reason, and watering and loosening are applied in a timely manner, then you can resort to summer organic top dressing with the addition of urea based on: fermented organics (mullein or bird droppings) - 250-280 grams and 15-20 grams of urea per 1 bucket water. With such a solution, after not abundant watering, pour into the line under the root without excess. Can be repeated after two weeks.
Prevention of fungal diseases
When the height of the onion feather reaches 12-16 centimeters, it is possible to carry out preventive treatment against fungal diseases, which consists in spraying with an aqueous solution of copper sulfate and liquid soap at the rate of: 5-8 grams of soap and 15-20 grams of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water.
This usually happens in the period: from the second or third week of August to the beginning of September, when the growth of greenery obviously stops, the leaves turn yellow and dry, the turnip has acquired a characteristic ripe scale. It is impossible to overdo the harvest because of the danger of awakening to the growth of the bulbs. Both sets and onions can be pulled out with your hands if the stems do not break. You can use a pitchfork, carefully digging so as not to damage the onion turnip. It is best to do this on a sunny day or in cloudy but dry weather.
If the weather is sunny and the soil is dry enough, then the harvested onion crop and sevka for drying can be spread directly on the beds. An adult turnip dries out in such natural conditions for 1 week, sevka is enough for 3-4 days. This option is not for those who cannot follow the process of drying onions in the garden every day and according to the weather. In this case, and in wet weather, the harvested onion crop must be dried under a canopy with good air circulation.
The collected onion has dried out well - start trimming the dry stems, leaving a 3-4 cm neck with the bulb. After drying and trimming, onions need to be properly sorted for safe storage. Large turnips are considered food, and small ones (samples) up to 3 centimeters in diameter - it is advisable to save them as seeds for a green feather.
Hello, friends! Planting onions It's a serious matter, because it's not always and not everyone succeeds. Many advise planting onion sets when it becomes completely warm, they say, from an early planting, it can go into the arrow. But in fact, he shoots if the temperature is very low or zero, that is, there is a large difference between day and night temperatures. There are other equally important they are main reasons archery - sevka.
Firstly: due to improper storage of sevka - you can not store it at low positive temperatures, that is, above + 3º, but below + 18º. It should be stored in a dry place at a temperature of 0 to +2 degrees, but not higher. Humidity 70 - 75% and always in a ventilated place. If you store in a cardboard box, then know that this is not the best option, as the cardboard becomes damp during storage and this moisture will transfer to the stored onion. It can also be stored in a dry and hot place. Previously, it was stored on a Russian stove on a shelf.
Secondly: very large sevok over 2 cm in diameter. If it is less than this size, then, as a rule, it does not shoot.
About the size of the set
- 8 - 14 mm, these are small bulbs, they do not shoot at all, but on poor soil a small turnip will grow from them, or it may lag behind larger seeds in development.
- 14 - 21 mm is the best seed size for planting on a turnip.
- 21 - 24 mm - a large fraction, if such sets were stored incorrectly, then many varieties can shoot. However, if the storage conditions are observed and it is properly processed before planting, then this is a good option: it ripens early and almost 100% of the crop.
- 24 - 30 mm - it is better to use such sets for getting greenery, since a large percentage of arrows.
How to choose sevok
It must be spotless. dry, tight, no damage, mildew. if the onion is damp, then be sure to dry it.
About timing and landing
The soil
Cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplants, in general, all those crops under which a lot of fertilizers were applied, will be good predecessors for onions. If you could not allocate such a place for onions, then in the fall add 1 sq. meter near a bucket of cow humus, a teaspoon of nitrophoska, 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, a handful of wood ash. By the way, onions love ash very much.
In our area, all this has to be done in the spring, because if I do it in the fall, then with the hollow spring waters everything will be washed away.
But if you are more fortunate, then it is better to prepare the garden bed in the fall, and dig it up again in the spring.
Onions need loose, fertile soil, clay soil is not for him. If you have just such a thing, then try to add humus, peat, sand under the bow (large sand is needed, fine building sand will not work, it cakes) - in general, make it moisture and breathable, light.
For the second feeding, in addition to mullein, superphosphate and ash, you need to add 5 g of potassium sulfate, which is responsible for the good ripening of the bulbs and the accumulation of sugar in them.
Third top dressing- at the end of June exactly the same as the second.
Do not use potassium chloride, and stop all feeding a month before harvesting. In other words, let the onions ripen in July.
After watering, top dressing and rains, obligatory loosening. I stop watering and fertilizing a month before harvesting.
On heavy soils, it is necessary to do soiling or raking, that is, to rake the ground from the bulbs so that only the roots remain in it (in the ground). This must be done carefully so as not to damage the plant. This procedure will help the onion form and ripen faster. Since our soils are heavy, I also use raking and do it in the first half of June. By the way, this operation can be carried out on any soil, then the onion fly larvae are not comfortable hatching, and the bulbs themselves quietly grow in breadth.
If the weather is rainy and the onion does not ripen in any way, help it, just damage the root system by digging the plant. After 2-4 days after that, you can remove the onions, if the weather allows.
Do not be late with harvesting, 10-15 days after the feather lodging, new roots may begin to grow and the plant will resume growth. Then it will be very difficult to save the bow. Onions begin to be harvested after lodging of leaves in 50% of plants. It is advisable to clean up before the August rainy season, it is best to do this in early August, in the very first days, especially if the weather is good.
After harvesting, the onion must be dried well, and only then cut off the leaves, leaving a neck 3-4 cm long. It must be laid well dried, then it can be stored for a very long time in a dry and lit place.
So, let's summarize: in order to get an onion crop, you need to choose the right size of the sowing for planting, dry it, warm it up and subject it to other necessary processing, properly prepare the soil, plant it at the right time, carry out top dressing until the end of June, at the beginning of June, carry out soiling, weeding , watering, loosening, well, clean up in time.
Good luck and see you soon, friends!
Dear friends, the May spring sun is warming more and more confidently, which means that it's time to plant onions. We hope that you have already prepared onion sets.
This is the name of a one-year-old onion grown from seeds (nigella) and representing a small onion.
Sevok can be grown independently from seeds or purchased at garden centers and stores.
How to choose sevok
It is important to choose the right quality planting material. Bulbs should not be shriveled, already sprouted. In this case, the supply of their nutrients has already gone to the pen, and a good turnip will not work.
Also inspect them for damage and rot, this is important because such a set will not make a good onion head, it will be prone to disease, will not grow well, or even rot.
Here the principle applies: quality is more important than cheapness. It is better to purchase good planting material than discounted, but not meeting these criteria.
A good set of small size, dense, with a shiny smooth, whole and tight-fitting husk.
When to plant onion sets outdoors
The most popular month for planting onions is May. Specific dates depend on your climate zone. In central Russia, onions can be planted throughout May, while the spring moisture of the soil is preserved, which the onion respects very much.
When planting onions, it is not even the date that is more important, but the weather conditions and soil temperature. No need to rush to land if the weather is cold and wet. It is necessary to wait for warm days when the soil warms up to at least 15-20 degrees Celsius.
If you rush and plant the onions in the cold ground, then this will not lead to anything good. Although the onion tolerates frost and cold quite well, its character deteriorates because of this. He will certainly take revenge on you and, instead of a good turnip and greenery, he will grow flower arrows for you.
Therefore, it is better to wait for stable warm weather without rain than to be left without a crop. Pay attention not only to the lunar calendar as the ultimate truth, but also to the weather forecast, it will be more accurate.
What to do so that the bow does not go to the arrow
Even before planting, it is important to know why the sevok goes into the peduncle and how to avoid it.
The reason for the fact that the bow shoots is the incorrect storage temperature of the planting material, the lack of adaptation before planting, and the violation of the rules of care.
Let us explain in more detail: onion sets must be stored at positive temperatures, because it is the cold that provokes the onion to create arrows. This is a signal to launch a self-preservation program and give offspring as soon as possible. Therefore, as soon as you plant such a set, it will begin to produce flower stalks in order to give seeds faster.
The key to a large and strong onion turnip is storage in comfortable conditions, without cold stress.
But what if you bought an onion set in a store, and you have no idea how it was stored? No problem. Purchased onions need to arrange an adaptation period.
To do this, two weeks after the purchase, we keep the onion near the battery or in another warm place. And then we store it before planting only at room temperature and in the dark so that it does not begin to germinate ahead of time.
If there is no time to warm up the battery or the heating has already been turned off, then you can do the following: give the bow a warm bath. In a bowl of warm water (40-45) degrees, spread the onion and leave for 8 hours, periodically adding warm water. Then we take out the heads, dry it thoroughly and store it at room temperature until planting.
For planting on a turnip, choose medium-sized heads, because large ones are more prone to shooting and are best planted on greens. Do not plant in cold soil. For the same reason, watering with cold water should be avoided.
Processing and soaking onions before planting
First of all, when preparing a seed for planting, you need to carefully sort it out. Arm yourself with several containers for sorting.
It is necessary to reject all damaged and small specimens, leaving medium-sized bulbs for planting on the head. Large onions, small and even sprouted ones are suitable for greens. But empty, shriveled, missing - we throw it away.
Next, carefully cut off each dry tail at the crown with scissors. This simple operation will help them germinate faster and better. Well, you need to be afraid that an infection will get into the cut, because the sevok will be treated for diseases before planting.
Should onions be soaked before planting? And what is the best way to do it? Let's figure it out.
To feed the bulb so that it grows large, it is recommended to dilute the complex fertilizer in water (40-45 degrees) and soak the onion there all night. When the sevok is saturated with usefulness, you can proceed to its protective treatment and planting.
Most popular recipes:
- Soaking onions in potassium permanganate. We make a strong dark pink solution of potassium permanganate and soak the onions in it for 2-3 hours. After that, they will need to be washed under running water so that concentrated potassium permanganate does not damage future young roots. Potassium permanganate prevents fungal and bacterial diseases.
- Soaking onions in saline. 1 st. l salt diluted in one liter of water, immerse the bulbs in it for 2-3 hours. Salt also prevents decay and disease.
- Soaking in blue vitriol. 1 tsp of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water, for 10-15 minutes. Copper sulfate disinfects seedlings and protects them from diseases.
Processing onions before planting with salt, potassium permanganate and ash
On a three-liter jar of warm (60 degrees) water we take 2 tbsp. l with a slide of salt + dark pink solution of potassium permanganate + 2 tbsp. l wood ash. Soak for 2 hours.
Processing onions before planting from pests with birch tar
The most nasty onion pest is, of course, the onion fly. Fortunately for us, she cannot stand the smell of birch tar. And if you want to protect your crops, then it would be useful to soak the onion in the solution as well: 1 tbsp. l. tar in a liter of water for 10-15 minutes.
With the same solution, you can additionally shed plantings during the growing season.
Onion planting and care in the open field
As we know, onions cannot be planted in the same place where an onion bed was also located last year. The probability of diseases in this case greatly increases, and such landings should be avoided.
Choose a place where tomatoes, carrots, potatoes, legumes, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, cabbage were previously planted. The earth after them retains its nutritional value, and this is necessary for the onion to grow a good turnip. Onions and carrots have good neighborly relations, they scare away each other's pests, so you can plant them side by side.
He also prefers that the soil is not heavy, loose and nutritious. Places likes light, with good drainage, without stagnant moisture.
It is better to prepare the future onion bed in advance in the fall, loosen the ground well and add humus and compost. In the spring, one to two weeks before planting, we loosen the soil and spill it with organic humic fertilizers. Will do.
Planting an onion on a turnip (per head)
We prepare grooves about 8-10 cm deep. The distance between them is at least 15 cm.
Spill them with a disinfectant solution. You can use both powder (1 tsp per 10 liters of water) and paste (1 tbsp of diluted paste per 10 liters of water).
We plant our seedlings in the spilled grooves at a distance of 10 cm from each other. We sit him down on what is called “on the shoulders”, i.e. not only to cover the roots, but much deeper. This is necessary so that the bulb has good contact with the soil and does not hang out, because. She won't have roots yet.
Sprinkle wood ash on top as fertilizer and disinfection. And we fill the grooves with earth.
Planting onions on greens (on a feather)
When we do not have a goal to grow a turnip, but we only want greenery, then to save space, we suggest that you use a bridge landing.
This is when the bulbs are planted one to one very tightly and not very deep. At the same time, landing in open ground is not necessary, you can use a container with earth. Or select a small place in the garden.
Mixed nib and head fit at the same time
When we don’t have a lot of space, but I want to grow a good onion and eat greens, then this method will come in handy. We make grooves as usual, but we plant sevok in them in a checkerboard pattern and quite often.
With such a goal that some of these seedlings will grow on a turnip, and some can be pulled through as they grow, not greens and consumed fresh.
Otherwise, the actions are the same as in the classic landing on a turnip (see above).
Onion care
When we have organized a good bed, in a lit place, with nutritious loose soil, we only have to weed it in time so that the weeds do not interfere with the growth of the crop. Watering is carried out after planting once a week.
Onions also need frequent loosening of the soil (between rows and between plantings, especially after rain, so that the earth does not turn into a crust) and top dressing.
At the end of May, it is necessary to feed it with nitrogen-containing fertilizers, in mid-June - it already needs potassium fertilizers and ammonium nitrate. For those who prefer to do without chemicals, green fertilizers from weeds and nettles, biohumus and ash are suitable.
Top dressing with ammonia is also effective: 2 tbsp. l of ammonia dissolve in 10 liters of water, it is necessary to water with such a product on wet ground, and not on dry ground. Therefore, we pre-moisten the beds. Ammonia will drive away pests and nourish your plantings with the necessary nitrogen.
We do this top dressing three times with an interval of 10 days. And you will forget about the yellowing of the onion feather, and the onion fly will not stick its nose into your beds.
So dear friends, there is nothing complicated in growing onions, you will definitely succeed.
How to treat onion flies
Onions have long ceased to be exotic in the summer cottage, rather, on the contrary, it is strange when it is not there. Despite its wide distribution and popularity, not all gardeners know how to grow it. This is a rather capricious culture and any deviation in agricultural technology leads to a deterioration in the quality of the crop. An excessively "evil" onion grows with a lack of moisture at the beginning of the growing season, a small head is formed during a dense planting and at the wrong depth, non-compliance with crop rotation and violation of the rules of care leads to the development of diseases and affects keeping quality.
Often summer residents get such a harvest, half of which is not stored until the middle of winter, and the other half is suitable only for borscht because of the pronounced sharpness. What features need to be considered in order to properly plant onions and avoid many problems?
Onions love lighted areas and do not tolerate lowlands with heavy waterlogged soils. Good predecessors for him will be cabbage, cucumber and nightshade. These crops do not have common pests and diseases with onions, and since their cultivation is accompanied by the application of high doses of organic and mineral fertilizers, the soil is still quite nutritious.
Also, onions can go after zucchini and peas, but it is undesirable to occupy areas that were previously under carrots, since fresh organic matter is not brought under this crop, and onions require fertile soil. Also, the site after it is released late, you may not have time to prepare it for a new landing. You can plant carrots after onions, joint plantings and the close location of the beds are good (they scare pests away from each other).
It is possible to return the plant to its original place no earlier than after 3 years, and with a high incidence of diseases - only after 5 years. Planting an onion on a head in spring should be carried out in loose and moderately moist soil, therefore, in the fall, the site should be dug up on a shovel bayonet, and in the spring it should only be harrowed with a rake and leveled.
If necessary, compost or humus and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are introduced in the fall. To neutralize the soil solution on acidic soils, chalk or lime is added. Plots where fresh manure was introduced are recommended to be occupied with onion only for 2 years.
In poorly warmed areas with heavy clay soil, wide ridges are cut in autumn, on which planting will be carried out.
When is an onion planted?
The exact dates of disembarkation are determined by the prevailing weather conditions and soil temperature. Onion is a cold-resistant crop, but when planted in cold soil, it will shoot, which will reduce the quality of the crop.
On the other hand, the procedure must be completed when there is still a supply of moisture in the soil, the need for which the onions have at the beginning of growth is great. And the relatively long growing season of this crop does not forgive delay.
Planting material preparation
Planting material (sevoc) stored in a warm way (18-20ºC at a humidity of 60-70%) does not require any procedures to activate growth processes. A week before planting, it is sorted out, discarding dried, sprouted and rotting bulbs, and sorted, dividing into 2-3 fractions.
The smallest fraction (diameter less than 1.5 cm) is recommended to be sown at an earlier date, since it does not give arrows. Sevok from the middle fraction (diameter 1.5-2 cm) gives the best harvest, but on condition that the planting is made in sufficiently warm soil. Large onions (more than 3 cm in diameter) can be used to grow onions for feathers or to get turnips for canning, as they often give arrows, which affects keeping quality.
If the planting material was stored at low temperatures (in the attic, in the cellar, etc.), then 2-3 weeks before planting, it must be transferred to a warm room and dried (the container with the sevka can simply be placed near the battery, but not very close ).
The calibrated seed is heated at 40ºC for 8 hours to destroy the internal infection (you can put it on a battery in a cardboard box). Before planting, the bulbs are soaked in hot water for 12-24 hours. Instead of water, you can use a weakly concentrated solution of complex fertilizers.
Immediately before planting, the planting material is treated for 15 minutes with a pale solution of potassium permanganate or a fungicide (for example, copper sulphate). After processing, rinsing in clean warm water is required.
Some gardeners cut the “tails” of the seedlings to speed up germination. However, this procedure damages the protective barrier and opens the door for infection, so it is better to get by with soaking, which will already halve the time before germination.
Planting technique for onion sets
Shallow grooves are cut on the leveled bed. The distance between the grooves should be 15-20 cm, so that it is convenient to take care of the plants. If the soil is not moist enough, the grooves are shed with water. Onions respond well to the introduction of wood ash and sand into the furrows.
In the prepared bed, you can plant the processed sevok. The bulbs are buried bottom down to the "shoulders", and then sprinkled with earth, so that a 2 cm layer is obtained on top. Surface plantings will give earlier shoots, but it will not work to get a good turnip with this technique.
Sevoc in a row is placed at a distance of 6-10 cm (depending on the variety). Some summer residents advise planting it in a compact “snake” in order to obtain not only bulbs, but also greens from one bed. As the plants grow in a row, thin out, removing the bulbs along with the feather. This method is convenient on a small bed, when there is confidence that it will be thinned out in a timely manner.
How to grow a head from seeds in one season?
Growing onions for turnips in the Non-Black Earth Region, the Far East and Siberia takes place in a two-year culture, i.e., first sevok is obtained from seeds, from which turnips are grown the next year. In the southern regions and Central Russia, some sweet and peninsular varieties and hybrids can form a marketable bulb from seeds in one season. To get a turnip immediately from seeds, you need to carry out early spring and winter sowing or use seedlings.
If weather conditions allow, then onions can be sown as early as the end of April immediately in open ground. To speed up the germination of seeds, they must be placed in warm water or a solution of growth stimulants for 1-2 days.
Sowing is best done on high ridges. Seeds are sown to a depth of about 2 cm, using a tape method with a distance between the tapes of 20 cm. Thus, if the ridge is 1 meter wide, then 4-5 rows can fit on it. Seedlings need regular watering and thinning twice. The first time is thinned out a few days after mass shoots, leaving an interval of 2 cm between plants, and the second time - in the phase of 2-3 true leaves with an interval of 6 cm.
In winter, seeds are sown from late October to mid-November. Podzimny sowing is characterized by an increased seeding rate (3 times) and mulching of crops with peat. Seedlings appear earlier, so the bulb ripens earlier.
Through seedlings, mainly sweet lettuce varieties are grown. Sowing seedlings in a heated greenhouse is carried out in early March. It is possible to grow seedlings at home, but only with sufficient lighting. When sown in nutrient soil, seedlings require only regular watering. Plants are planted in open ground at the age of 55 days (they should already have 3-4 true leaves). To do this, choose a cloudy day or evening. Planted with a row spacing of 25 cm, between plants in a row they stand 6-8 cm.
The best varieties and hybrids
Onions are very sensitive to the length of daylight hours, so for planting, you need to choose only zoned varieties or achievements of local selection. Varieties bred in the northern regions, in the south with a short daylight hours, may not form a bulb at all. When creating your collection of favorites in the garden, include representatives from different groups. Spicy varieties are distinguished by high keeping quality and productivity, semi-sharp and sweet varieties have good taste.
A guaranteed harvest can be obtained by planting old local varieties. In different regions, Strigunovsky, Rostov local, Bessonovsky, Spassky, Mstersky, Pogarsky, Timiryazevsky received national fame. They are regionalized quite widely and are known to gardeners throughout Central Russia and beyond.
Of the widely zoned sharp varieties and hybrids, it is worth noting Golden Semko, Centurion and Stuttgarter Riesen.
Golden Semko - early ripe with a large rounded golden onion, which is formed in one season immediately from seeds; gives a high yield; cultivated in all regions of Russia.
Centurion - a little arrowing hybrid with a medium-early ripening period; bulbs are golden, medium-sized, slightly elongated; disease resistant.
Stuttgarter Riesen - mid-season with large, slightly flattened bulbs.
Peninsular varieties for Central Russia: Zolotnichok, Odintsovets, Sputnik, Myachkovsky 300, Red Baron.
golden - medium early with golden rounded bulbs.
Myachkovsky 300 - early high-yielding with flattened yellow bulbs of medium size; suitable for growing turnips directly from seeds.
Red Baron - early ripening; bulbs are dark purple, rounded, weighing up to 150 g.
Good varieties and hybrids of sweet onions: Exhibition, Ritmo, Comet.
Exhibition - average term of maturing with large oval bulbs of yellow color; suitable for growing in an annual crop from seeds; has a high yield, but low keeping quality.
Comet - late ripening with white large bulbs; resistant to disease and suitable for long-term storage.
It can be difficult for beginner gardeners to decide which onion to plant on the head. After all, not only taste and productivity are important here, but also keeping quality and disease resistance. Moreover, the same variety in different soil and climatic conditions can show different results. Therefore, select up to 5 different varieties in order to highlight your favorites in 2-3 seasons.
The subtleties of plant care
Young seedlings need regular (1-2 times a week) and moderate watering, followed by loosening of row spacing to restore aeration of the roots. With the beginning of the formation of the head, the frequency of irrigation is reduced, and a month before harvesting they are not carried out at all for the successful ripening of the bulb. However, in case of severe drought, it is recommended to carry out sprinkling with a small amount of water.
Weeds pose a serious threat to seedlings, so weeding must be timely. Hilling of plants and close loosening is not allowed. Weeds in the row are removed manually so as not to damage the bulb with a weak root system.
Many summer residents are advised to carry out one or even two top dressing per season. However, there is no need for them on fertile soils seasoned with organic matter since autumn. On poor soils, the first top dressing with liquid organic fertilizers (horse manure, bird droppings, mullein) is carried out about a month after planting. The second top dressing is carried out during the period of turnip formation, using phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. To prevent root burns, top dressing is carried out after moistening the soil and before watering.
