Basic paraffins for skating. Basic ski preparation. Which paraffin is better

Paraffin for ski lubrication is used to increase the glide moment. Regardless of the type of skis used, without the use of lubrication, their grip with snow will be too great for comfortable skiing. However, such grip is only necessary when the wheel is moving on the road. Skis should glide smoothly and softly.

Paraffins are mixtures of hydrocarbons that are obtained as a by-product during oil refining. The composition of paraffin mixtures may differ in the degree of viscosity. There are such types of paraffins:

• Soft that melts at normal room temperature.
• Solid, which requires heating up to 70 degrees Celsius to melt.
• Crystalline paraffins, which undergo the process of crystallization when heated above 70 degrees.

The color of wax for skis by temperature: yellow +1 degrees and above, red from 0 to +5 degrees, purple from 0 to -3 degrees, blue from -2 to -6 degrees, green from -5 to -25 degrees

By its properties, this substance is both a lubricant and a waterproof composition. They are added to various mixtures to acquire the necessary qualities. For example, petroleum jelly is produced on the basis of a substance obtained from oil refining products.

Paraffin is also used in lubricants for machinery. AT various types skiing, he found use as a means of improving glide. Read also our article on what additional tools will be required.

Wax mixtures for ski waxing are usually divided into the following types:

• For skiing at low temperatures below minus 12 degrees.
• For snow skiing from minus 12 to minus 2 degrees.
• Warm types used at temperature above minus 2 degrees.

The main substance on which the quality of sliding in warm weather depends is fluorine. For lubricants designed for warm weather, add more of it. The lower its content, the lower the temperature of the lubricant is designed. There are also all-weather lubricants that can be used regardless of weather conditions. For example, for use in the temperature range from 0 to 30 degrees. The composition of such a lubricant, in addition to fluorine, also includes silicone, different types salts, metal oxides.

It is also worth noting that paraffins for ski lubrication can be produced in various forms.

Applying paraffin with an iron

This procedure can only be carried out with a liquid paraffin wax for skis. To carry it out, the surface of the skis on which the application is planned must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt, snow and other substances that often fall on it during use. Then the skis should be dried well.

Application is in progress during the off-season. For this you need:

• Heat a special iron for applying paraffin to a temperature of 150 degrees.
• Apply or spray the paraffin mixture on the surface of the ski intended for sliding. In this case, one should take into account the fact that different methods of applying paraffin wax are used for different types of skis. Skate-type skis require lubrication of the entire sliding surface. For standard skis, only the beginning and end of the ski are lubricated, excluding its central part. Read about the types of cross-country skiing at.
• Next, you should walk with an iron along the paraffin-covered surface of the ski in the direction from toe to heel.
• After the paraffin coating procedure, the ski should cool down for at least 10 minutes. The temperature in the room should not be below 0 degrees Celsius.
• A special brush should be walked over the lubrication layer.

The result of these actions is the penetration of heated paraffin into the pores of the material from which the ski is made, and by filling them evens out its entire sliding surface. Anything left on its surface should be removed with a brush.

To achieve an acceptable result, the whole process must be done about 10 times. The reason for this is that when cleaning excess paraffin with a brush, part of the necessary layer, which was in the surface irregularities, will also be removed. When coated with a paraffin mixture a number of times, the paraffin layer will be more dense and better compacted.

How to wax skis without an iron

It is not always possible to use an iron to cover skis with a paraffin mixture. Often this is hindered by a time limit, with the mandatory need for such lubrication.

For this purpose, ski lubricant manufacturers produce liquid waxes for skis, which do not require heat treatment for application. For this you need:

• Dry the ski.
• Scrub the slip layer thoroughly with a brush to remove dirt.
• Wipe and let dry
• Apply a small amount of lubricant.
• Wait a short amount of time, about 3-5 minutes.
• Rub the lubricant over the entire surface of the ski.
• Let stand for about 10 minutes more

If the situation is such that there is too much lubricant, the excess amount is removed with a brush. But when cold lubrication is applied, brushing on last step application doesn't really matter.

Important! Many ski enthusiasts make the mistake of assuming that you can lubricate with cold paraffin right in between skiing. This layer will not last long. For high-quality application, at least one hour is required, as well as the presence of sunny weather or a warm room. A cold wax application will always be worse than a standard heat treatment.

Top Producers

According to ski enthusiasts, the best ski lubricants are the following:

• Ray. It is considered a budget option for ski lubricant. Proper use depends on the conditions in which you plan to ride, as well as the correct choice of the appropriate lubricant.

• Swix. The most popular lubricant among both amateur skiers and professional skiers. The line of lubricants of this company provides options for any temperature and weather conditions.
• Vauchti (Vauhti). Liquid paraffins of this brand are very popular with skiers, as they do not require heat treatment before application. There are three types of lubricants in the paraffin data line: for wet snow and temperatures from +10 to -6 degrees, for new and wet snow and temperatures from +4 to -2 degrees and paraffin for cold snow and temperatures from -3 to -15 degrees .

Ski lubricants, even when properly applied, must be renewed on a sliding surface. Therefore, their correct and high-quality choice comes first.

See also a useful video on how to paraffin skis at home:

Also interesting

Manufacturers recommend applying paraffins in layers, eg SWIX: CH-LF-HF (START: SG-LF-HF). Fluorine free - light fluoride - high fluoride. Why? It is very important that the sliding surface (SP) be covered with paraffin without micro-passing. And paraffins with a high fluorine content well repel not only water, but also do not wet plastic in the best way, stick. Fluorine-free paraffins adhere better to the joint venture. Therefore, it is correct to first moisten the joint venture of new skis with CH (SG) paraffin (to make the base, the basis for the next layers), then with less sticky paraffins. This layer of paraffin performs the function of initial wetting; in the future, the use of fluorine-free paraffin for the base is not necessary.

The concept of "layer" serves only to make it easier to explain to the user the essence of the process. In fact, all layers are remelted and the resulting mixture has a very small percentage of paraffin, which started with. Recall the application process: I melted a large amount of paraffin on the joint venture, cleaned it with a scraper and brushes to the thinnest layer, then again fill the joint venture with a large amount of more fluoride paraffin. A small amount of CH is remelted with a large amount of LF. Similarly with HF-paraffin. Despite the small amount, the influence of the base wax on the properties of the final alloy is still there. Therefore, a layer of more fusible, more plastic paraffin is applied under frosty paraffins, which prevents overheating and chipping, and hard frosty ones are applied under warm paraffins with abrasive snow.

What kind of paraffin to apply the powder?

Fluorocarbon powders provide the best water repellency and good glide. The problem is applying the fluorocarbon film to the ski. Not only does the molten powder poorly wet polyethylene-based plastic, it is also easy to melt the joint venture. In order for the powders to work for a long time and effectively, an intermediate layer of synthetic fluoride paraffin is necessary. START recommends applying SFR(powders) to HF paraffin. And according to the recommendations of SWIX, not only a bunch of HF-FC (different powders) is possible, but also bunches of LF7-FC, LF8-FC and LF10-FC. In practice, no decrease in the stability of the powder layer, laid not on HF, but on LF SWIX, was observed. This does not mean that the glide will be the same or that LF is always worse. You have to try. And only in order to avoid unnecessary uncertainty, amateurs under powders often impose HF.

Which company's paraffins roll better?

The problem is solved by enumeration, i.e., rolling back a set of options. There are a lot of lubricant manufacturers, no money is enough to try them all. What should a hobbyist buy? In stores, SWIX and START are the most common. Take them. My recommended set of lubricants for the Moscow region tritely simple: HF80 START, LF6 SWIX, HF7 SWIX, HF8 SWIX. Frosty paraffins roll without additives, warmer ones are suitable for one of the lubrication options for frozen, transformed snow. Other options require coating of paraffins with powders. The use of powders, in addition to their excellent work at high humidity, is also justified by the fact that warm paraffins have a wear resistance problem. Powders increase the stability of the lubricant. I recommend powder F9-20(±4°) from the "9th element". Suspensions (activator F9-01, in particular) and powders, tablets and powders are combined to create a continuous coating of the joint venture with fluorocarbon. For example, first they rub the ski with a tablet, then the powder is melted. There is no danger of touching the joint venture with a hot iron, there is always a layer. Since only a thin film of fluorocarbon is needed, less powder is used. This is more economical (total tablet + powder) and safer for the SP than running with a single powder. I often use the SFR99(±9°) START tablet on my own on stale, stale snow and at temperatures colder than recommended for F9-20 powder. Tablet and powder are not the same thing. At least, the conditions for the use of tablets and powders are often separated by humidity. START recommends using powders as a top coat at higher humidity than tablets.

For Peter, in my opinion, it is easier to select a lubricant. Humidity is always high, a lot of fresh snow. There are fewer options. The whole line of PHF paraffins from START is good. Polymeric paraffins are also favored by their high dirt-repellent properties, which is important when the ski track is prepared with a smoky Buran. Polymer waxes allow you to use the same lubricant for training and competition. Simply cheaper than conventional fluorocarbon powders, and even more so polymer ones. (You can also get away with a cheaper lubricating iron.) And in most cases, without loss of glide quality. Only in marathons can a fundamental difference be noticeable. Now paraffins of the PHF series are not produced, but they can still be bought. Something else in the cold, the same HF80.

Have both lines of lubricants and for St. Petersburg, and for Moscow is very useful. Difficult snow problems are easier to solve, especially near 0°. By the way, polymer waxes can be a good base for powders. You can make the minimum allowable set for an amateur from just three paraffins: HF80(-7°-25°), PHF600(-1°-6°) from START and HF7(-2°-8°) from SWIX. Here PHF600 for high humidity, HF7 for snow dried by night frost, non-abrasive. Paraffins, if necessary, can be mixed by applying in a checkerboard pattern and remelted. In most cases, you will be fine sliding in the cold. Even without powders. And you don’t need water lubrication, because it won’t help if you don’t have plus skis.

By Dan Brown slips / does not slip - the concept is relative, not absolute. No need to hope that for every condition of snow there is a lubricant that allows you to roll perfectly. Successful lubrication will allow you to roll better than other skiers. Brown also writes: keep it simple.

PHF waxes from START are polymeric high fluorine waxes. Good at high (> 85% strictly!) Humidity. Can serve as a replacement for traditional fluorocarbon powders. (Not at marathons.) START itself writes this in the package insert for the PHF200 and PHF400 paraffins! Recommended for use on old and dirty snow. In my experience, PHFs are good for fresh snow that hasn't lost moisture. The properties of different paraffins are described below, the characteristic episodes of testing are given. The glide quality was determined in comparison with the glide of skis treated with other lubricants and relative to other skiers.

Paraffins PHF

PHF200 (+1°+10°) is very good. Maximum water repellency. Soft, plastic. It is cleaned with a brush to a thin film, which is durable, does not loosen for a long time, does not turn gray. I tried it in St. Petersburg on the "Priboy" at + 5 °, after rain. Spring coarse-grained dirty snow. Needles, twigs. After passing 25 km, the paraffin is in place, there is a barely noticeable whitishness under the block. Rubbed with white paper, the paper remained clean. Didn't pick up dirt.

If the spring sun shines on the ski track, then the 200 rolls perfectly down to -6 °. The base matters! Used CH7(-2°-8°)SWIX. CH7 gives a solid base, without gaps, as evidenced by a solid oily sheen.

PHF400 (-1°+1°) was disappointing. Goes gray faster than 200. Old snow - minus, fresh - plus. Too similar to PHF600. At temperatures warmer than -1 °, mid-frost skis do not roll on any lubricant. On positive skis, the 200 worked better than the 400.

PHF600 (-1°-6°) is very good from -2° to -6°. On fresh fluffy snow is magnificent. However, there is fresh snow falling in the form of grains, on which the PHF600 slows down. I got on such snow at a temperature of -2 ° and -6 °.

PHF800 (-6°-12°) hard, needs to be ground to powder for ease of application. I tried it in Chulkov near Moscow after a heavy snowfall, at a temperature of -10 °. Rare weather from nighttime warmth (-8°) to daytime frost. Rolled great. Best of all starters. In St. Petersburg, in its temperature range, it always rolls.

Snow in Moscow and St. Petersburg

There is a difference in the properties of snow near St. Petersburg and in the Moscow region. The suburbs are drier, the snow is often old. Polymer paraffins, traveling in St. Petersburg almost always, in the Moscow region may not be the best. In the Moscow region, START BM6 paraffin with molybdenum is popular, which is impossible to imagine on fresh St. Petersburg snow. Amateur starts in the Moscow region are more massive, the snow is mixed more strongly. So there are no traces left of the fresh. And often the clay is turned outward.

Pro sometimes they apply different lubricant to the toe and heel of the ski. This is understandable, because the toe forms a water film, and the heel rolls along the finished one.

For the base at temperatures warmer than -10° I recommend CH7 from SWIX (423 REX BLUE is also good, I like SG4 from START less.), for colder temperatures - SG6 from START or LF6 from SWIX. Despite the hardness, they are easy to apply. START recommends using even more refractory SG8 or LF8 as a base for abrasive snow, but these glass-like paraffins are inconvenient to work with, you can overheat bare plastic. In theory, before applying HF, PHF or nano-paraffin, it is necessary to add light fluoride BWLF from START. I consider it redundant. There are no problems when applying paraffin to paraffin.

There is no pure snow

Skis melt soot out of the snow and much more. Dirt settles on the joint venture, accumulates in the furrows of the structure. Skis must be washed from dirt. If you lubricate dirty skis, then just spoil the new paraffin, it will lose its sliding properties. The easiest way is to wash with base wax, the one you will use today. Simply apply new paraffin wax and clean it with a brass brush. It is even better to clean the structure with an ultra-fine steel brush, wipe off dust with a cloth, and only then rinse. Do not store dirty skis for a long time! With long breaks in skiing, the skis must be covered with pure paraffin. Otherwise, the wettability of the plastic with paraffin will be greatly affected, which will necessarily affect the wear resistance of the lubricant.

Service paraffin

It is convenient to wash the joint venture with fusible service paraffin. For example, BP99 SWIX or SOFT SKI-GO. With service paraffin, the dirt is well washed off (the main thing is safe for the joint venture) and ends up on the iron. It must be washed from the iron, otherwise it will burn. Service wax is also applied to new skis at the initial stage of preparation. Then, dissolving in a more refractory basic paraffin, the service one will serve as its conductor into the fine grooves of the structure.

subtle matter

Wear-resistant only the thinnest layer of paraffin! A thick layer quickly loosens, turns gray. To create a thin layer, I use a manual brass brush. For soft paraffins, I prefer a combination rotary brush made of horsehair and white nylon and a revolving drill. I brush with half a horsehair brush until the white powder stops flying from the skis. Then lightly 2-3 passes with an ultra-fine manual steel brush to work out the structure. Then polished with white nylon. Accurate adherence to SKI-GO recommendations. Quote from the manual: “Only a very thin film of the last applied lubricant should remain on the surface of the grooves of the structure. Skis that are poorly brushed do not give optimal glide.”

Application of hard frost wax from a bar is difficult, leads to a high consumption of paraffin. Powder versions of frosty paraffins VAUHTI, SKI-GO, SWIX are convenient, economical.

How to grind paraffins into powder yourself?

We melt the bar on the iron, pour drops of molten paraffin into a basin of water. The resulting paraffin flakes are collected, dried on paper. Then we grind in small portions on a clean electric coffee grinder. It is not necessary to throw away the coffee grinder afterwards - paraffin residues are easy to remove. Small grains of paraffin require much less heat to melt than a bar. They are easy to distribute evenly on the slide. We melt with an iron, pressing the powder from above. The consumption of paraffin is reduced, less work with a scraper and brush. It becomes convenient to use frosty paraffin.

Important Details

When choosing a lubrication option, it is necessary, first of all, to take into account the condition of the snow, its structure. How long ago did it fall, what was the daily temperature range? The large diurnal variation in temperatures rapidly ages the snow. The way to prepare the ski track is important. If the ski track is prepared with a snowcat, then the lower old snow is mixed with fresh upper snow. Moreover, they melt it, spending a lot of power of the machine. If the ski track is rolled down with your feet, then there is more fresh snow on top. There are many states of snow, for example, fresh snow for lubrication is not the same as fresh falling snow. And falling snow comes in the form of fluffy large flakes and in the form of small grains ...

It is desirable to check the glide of skis, lubricants on snow of exactly the structure and degree of rolling, which is expected at the competition.

One rule for choosing paraffins

The recommendations of lubricant manufacturers look something like this: for new and old snow in the temperature range from ... to ... And the temperature ranges of several paraffins of the same line intersect. This allows the lubricant to more accurately adapt to the structure of the snow.

For most paraffins, the cold end of the application temperature range corresponds to fresh snow, and the warm end to old snow.(Not always, there are paraffins, the purpose of which is snow of a certain structure only, which is necessarily written in the manufacturer's manual.)

And with fresh snow, you need to try paraffin of a colder range, and with old snow - warmer.
This does not apply to icy, aggressive snow. For him, hard, frosty paraffin is needed, the fluorine content is often unimportant. A molybdenum additive is desirable.

With paraffins, structures, ski diagrams in the most general sense, everything obeys a single rule: new, fluffy snow does not adhere tightly to the SP, like a “blotter” takes water from a water film, requires a harder paraffin for sliding, a smoother structure, a smoother diagram, than follows from the readings of the thermometer.

If you don't anoint, you won't go. This wisdom is directly related to skiing. Ski preparation is needed not only for competitive athletes, but also for those who like to spend the weekend on skis. If you don’t want to give it to the service every time, you need to learn how to lubricate the skis yourself. Today we will talk about how to prepare skis, namely: how to smear skis with quick-apply lubricants, how to paraffin cross-country skiing And what you need to do.

How to smear skis without an iron?

Fast application lubricants are inexpensive emulsions, creams, pastes that are applied in a couple of minutes. They do not impregnate a deeply sliding surface; therefore, they will work for about 5-7 km. Such "lazy" lubricants are intended for people who use skis from time to time.

All instructions are the same:

• apply to the entire sliding surface in an even layer
• wait 2-3 minutes
• rub with natural cork or felt

There are expensive high fluoride emulsions, pastes and creams. The principle of use is the same, but they are much more expensive. Using expensive racing greases in a quick application method just doesn't make sense in our opinion. Racing emulsions, pastes and creams are used only after priming the ski with paraffin.

• Pros: fast, easy, convenient
• Minuses: grease quickly comes off the skis, does not increase the life of the skis

Lubrication example from Swix

The classic ski is lubricated on the video. Skate shoes are smeared in the same way, but in full length.

How to wax skis for skating?

This way of lubricating skis requires more time and tools. However, it is the most effective and most common among skiers. It is used both in training for ski care and in high-level competitions as an independent lubricant or primer for accelerators. This method of preparing skis will be discussed below.

Ski preparation tools

Ski preparation profile

It consists of 2 stops with a loop for fastening.

Iron

When preparing, it is better to use a special ski iron. It differs from the household one in the temperature regime and the sole. As an economy option, you can use an old household iron, but there is a risk of burning the sliding surface.

Several brushes

Ski brushes differ from household brushes in the stiffness and length of the pile. In any case, simple ski brushes are inexpensive and every amateur skier can afford a minimal set. The ideal set consists of 3 brushes: thin metal, medium hard nylon, soft nylon. If it is not possible to purchase 3 brushes, then you can get by with one medium nylon brush.

scrapers

Ski scrapers are the same for all manufacturers. They differ only in thickness - 3 mm and 5 mm. Choose which one is more comfortable in your hands, there is no fundamental difference. You will also need a scraper for the groove (it is possible to replace the body of a ballpoint pen or marker).

Paraffins

Ski paraffins are divided into 3 groups: CH (fluorine-free), LF (low fluoride), HF (high fluoride).

The higher the air humidity, the more fluorine is needed. And the more fluorine, the more expensive the paraffin. CH is enough for ski care and weekend skiing with the family. If you want better glide, then you need HF. LF is the middle option. In general, the budget decides here. The main thing is to apply paraffin of the appropriate temperature.

How to prepare skating skis?

1. Clean the plastic from dirt with a fine metal brush. 3-5 passes from toe to heel will be enough.
2. Apply paraffin and melt with an iron on the ski. Do not forget that plastic melts at 135 degrees, and the melting point of some paraffins is much higher. Therefore, the iron does not need to be held in place. Run the iron from toe to heel for no more than 8-10 seconds, then repeat the procedure 3-4 times to evenly melt the paraffin.
3. Let the plastic cool to room temperature. At this time, apply paraffin to the second ski.
4. Remove the wax from the groove and then from the edges and from the entire sliding surface. The paraffin from the groove is always removed first. So, when the scraper breaks, the sliding surface will not be damaged.
5. Clean the remains with a fine metal brush, if there is no metal, then medium-hard nylon. Just like in the first stage, 3-5 passes from toe to heel.
6. Polish with nylon brushes. First medium, then soft polishing. If there are no polishers, then after the 5th stage, the preparation is over.

How to wax skis: video instructions

This video shows the best way to apply paraffin wax. Note:

• paraffin is applied by drip method - not sparingly, but quickly and “fatly”
• processing is carried out with a metal and nylon brush
• we are talking about the initial preparation for the weather paraffin (this is not necessary at all, you can immediately apply the weather one)

In this video, pay attention to the method of applying paraffin to the ski. The “poke in the iron - smear on the ski” method is more economical and not inferior in efficiency.

Play sports, move and travel! If you find an error or want to discuss the article - write in the comments. We are always happy to communicate. 🙂

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When purchasing skis, you should understand that they will have to be lubricated periodically. Accordingly, the choice of lubricant depends on how often you will be. If your goal is a few hours of winter sports on a weekend, then the time and cost of maintaining skis in proper shape are very small. But if you intend to ski professionally, get ready to spend a lot of time. Accelerators, emulsions, pastes and paraffin for skis - get ready to splurge.

Which ski lubricant do we need?

To date, lubricants can be divided into two types:

1. Sliding lubricants
2. Holding Lubricants

At classical course the nose and heel of the ski are maintained in good condition with the help of a slip lubricant - paraffins. But the block (the central part of the ski) is treated with a holding ointment - this will minimize recoil during the course. Conventionally, the central part of the ski is a distance of 50 cm from the heel of the boot to the toe of the ski.

But the skis used for skating need to be treated only with lubricants along the entire length.

Conventionally, the preparation of one pair of skis by professionals is divided into the following stages:

• cleaning with soft paraffin (applying, removing with a plastic scraper, brushing)
• application of one or two layers of weather paraffin for skis (after application, the skis must stand at room temperature for at least 10 minutes)
• removal with a plastic scraper
• brushing
• polishing

Ski Lubricants

Most athletes and amateurs most often opt for paraffin for skis, however, venerable pros also resort to additional accelerators - powders, emulsions and pastes. They are spent quickly and are, to put it mildly, not cheap. If you do not intend to connect your life with skiing, you should not spend money on expensive imported lubricants. In most cases, domestic ones are no worse, and sometimes even an order of magnitude better. The only disadvantage of some domestic paraffins is that they disappear faster than imported ones.

The shelf life of sliding lubricants is practically unlimited. However, do not purchase too many of them "for the future."

Downhill skiing in areas with a humid climate (Moscow or Sochi) will require the purchase of fluorinated paraffin. If the climate humidity is below 50%, feel free to purchase paraffins without fluorine.

Ski lubricants

On sale there are solid lubricants in jars and liquid ointments in tubes. The quality of the ointment is determined by the fact that it allows the skier to push off from the spot without problems. When the skier makes a push, there is pressure on the snow under the block, the snow crystals enter the layer of ski hold lubricant and the ski, pressing against the snow layer, allows you to move off. But immediately after the push, the snow crystals should come out of the layer of ointment, which will allow the skier to glide.

Professional skiers spend a lot of time experimenting with ski hold lubricants. Even a special alternation of layers of ointments is used, their imposition in a checkerboard pattern. To make the descent on skis smooth and easy, for some time you should pay special attention to the course and note the difficulties during the movement. In addition, ski boots are not an accessory to skimp on. Only high-quality shoes will allow you to feel the move properly.

What do we need besides paraffin wax for skis?

There are many additional accessories on sale, the purchase of which depends only on whether you are an amateur or a beginner.

A plastic scraper will certainly be needed - it is necessary to remove excess paraffin. A fragment of a transparent school ruler, by the way, is not much worse than a professional one, which will cost you several hundred rubles.

A nylon brush is also a must-have. It is used to remove wax residues when you have already removed the main layer with a scraper. If you use hot paraffin wax, then without a hard brush, nothing at all.

Rough fibertex (Fibertex) - used to remove pile from plastic on new skis. But believe me - the residual pile will completely disappear after a couple of months of skiing. Fibertex is not too expensive. Not required to purchase.

Fiberlene is a non-woven material that is used for the final polishing of skis. If you find at home a piece of felt, a nylon stocking, or a simple woolen sock, then fiberlen will not be useful to you.

Sandpaper - to keep the ointment better, you need to sand the ski block. Almost any household skin with the appropriate grain size will do. Therefore, there is no need to purchase something special. Remember that you need to sand under the block every 30 km or after walking on ice.

Metal cycle - it is better to refrain from self-processing cycle skis. This is where professionalism and experience matter. It is better to leave your skis in the hands of an experienced craftsman for this purpose. In addition, most modern skis are already made with a structure that does not require scraping. And you can resort to this procedure only when burned plastic appears.

Knurling, used to apply a structure to a sliding surface - is not needed. The universal structure of modern skis is more than enough.

Copper brush, needed to remove frosty paraffins - only needed when applying hard frosty paraffin. When using liquid ointments, the need for a wire disappears. A seasoned tip - use a gel or frost accelerator, this will also eliminate the need to use a copper brush.

Wash - needed to remove the holding ointment under the block. Indispensable when removing slip wax, provided that you do not have the opportunity to use hot cleaning skis.

Rubbing (cork) is a must! It is used for leveling holding ointments (plastic) and for applying accelerators (cork).

Now you are armed with the most necessary knowledge regarding the use of paraffins and ointments. In order for skiing or walking in the forest to bring maximum pleasure, you need to take care of sports equipment. This is the guarantee of your carefree holiday.

Wax for skis is needed to improve the sliding moment. Whatever skis we ride - classic or skating - without additional lubrication, the skis will give too good grip on the snow. But good grip is needed only when the wheels are moving on asphalt. In order to develop speed on a snowy slope, it is better to have minimal grip on the surface. In the case of flat skiing, reducing friction helps to reduce the effort exerted by a person when moving.

What are paraffins

Paraffins are hydrocarbon mixtures formed as a by-product of petroleum refining. Paraffin compositions have different degrees of viscosity. There are:

• soft (liquid) paraffins that melt at room temperature;
• solid - melt when heated within 70 ° C;
• crystalline - go into a liquid state at temperatures above 70 ° C.

Functionally, paraffins are in most cases lubricating water-repellent substances. They are added to various mixtures to give the appropriate consistency and properties. For example, petroleum jelly is made on the basis of petroleum hydrocarbons.

Paraffins are used in technical lubricants. These substances have found their application in skiing as a means of improving the glide of skis and snowboards.

Ski paraffins

Ski paraffins are traditionally divided into:

• lubricants for cold skiing at snow temperatures below -12 ° C;
• lubricants for skiing at a snow temperature of -12 ° C…-2 ° C;
• warm lubricants for snow temperatures above -2 ° C.

Fluorine is the key ingredient for better lubrication at high temperatures. The less fluorine, the more severe frost (and low humidity) paraffin is designed for. Conversely, high fluoride lubricants are designed for mild and wet weather.

There are universal lubricants, the composition of which provides good glide on any snow. For example, TOKO Irox Fluoro spray, although low fluoride, is designed for use in a wide temperature range 0 ° C…-30 ° C. In addition to fluorine, ski lubricants contain: silicone, various salts, oxidized metals.

Using paraffins on plastic skis

It would seem that plastic is a good sliding material and without lubricants. Unlike, for example, traditional wooden skis, which, due to the low density of the material, provided better grip on the surface and, accordingly, rode worse.

The new skis really glide very well. But as you ride on the sliding surface and the edges, microcracks appear. Particles of ice and snow spoil the plastic. And although these changes are not noticeable to the human eye, under a microscope, the surface of such a ski resembles a mountain landscape. Gliding properties are degraded due to such terrain.

In order to fill all these microdamages, restore the ideally slippery surface of the ski and use hydrocarbon lubricants.

Why Choose Liquid Paraffins

It should be noted right away that paraffins in liquid form do not have any advantages over solid waxes in their functionality. The purpose of all paraffin waxes is to impregnate the sliding surface of the ski. All waxes, including liquid waxes, require heat treatment after application to ensure the most efficient rolling.

Liquid paraffins are available in 2 types:

1. liniment;
2. spray can.

Paraffin in the form of cream-ointment, in general, from the point of view of the user does not have any differences from solid types.

Aerosol form provides additional convenience in terms of application. True, part of the product is sprayed past, which is why the consumption of aerosol paraffins is always greater.

Application of liquid paraffins

To apply liquid paraffin, the ski must be clean and dry. Particles of dirt, water, ice, which are clogged into the micropores of the sliding layer, will not allow the paraffin to be applied correctly.

with heat treatment

Waxing of skis with heat treatment, as a rule, is carried out between skiing in home-garage conditions. This initially assumes that the skis are clean and dry.

1. Heat up the iron to 150 ° FROM.
2. We spray liquid paraffin on the sliding layer of the ski. We keep in mind that different types of skis require a different model for applying lubrication. In skis for skating, the entire sliding surface is lubricated. Classic skis wax, bypassing the central part.
3. We iron the ski in the direction from the toe to the heel.
4. Let the ski cool down and dry at a temperature not lower than 0 ° C at least 10 min.
5. We pass a layer with applied grease with a brush.

As a result of these manipulations, heated paraffin penetrates into the pores of the plastic, fills them, and the microscopic "landscape" of the sliding surface is leveled. The wax remaining on the surface is superfluous. We remove it with a brush.

Ideally, this cycle should be repeated up to 10 times. The fact is that brushing, in addition to removing the surface layer, also removes part of the “useful” paraffin that filled the microcracks. When we repeat waxing several times in a row, we better “tamp down” the ski bumps with paraffin, fill the bumps and microcracks with better quality.

Without heat treatment

Often we do not have the opportunity to use the iron, we are limited in time, and we need to lubricate the skis, because they do not glide well. Manufacturers of liquid paraffins offer the theoretical possibility of using their lubricants without heat treatment.

1. We dry the ski.
2. We clean the sliding layer with a brush to remove dust and dirt from the pores of the plastic.
3. Wipe, let dry a little.
4. Apply a SMALL layer of lubricant.
5. Let stand 3-5 minutes.
6. We rub with a cork, a pad, or whatever we are used to using.
7. Let stand 10 min.

If you still put too much grease, then you should use a brush and remove the excess layer. However, lubricant manufacturers warn that with cold paraffin application, brushing at the final stage is not essential.

And if it does, it will last no more than 5 minutes. It takes about 1 hour for proper cold lubrication. The presence of the sun or some kind of room for drying is desirable.

You should be aware that, even if all of the above conditions are met, cold waxing is always an emergency measure, which in its effectiveness will never be compared with the classic heat treatment option.

The cost of liquid paraffins

Paraffins in the form of ointments cost about $5 for 25 g. Sprays, especially those with high fluoride, can cost up to $40 for a 50 ml can.

Types of skis do not affect the choice of one or another paraffin. However, it should be remembered that, unlike skating, the sliding surface classic skis requires lubrication with additional holding ointment. Since traditional skiing involves the need for repulsion and, accordingly, requires better adhesion of the ski to the snow at the point of application of force, the holding ointment is applied in the center of the ski.